Street Photography Tips (Part 2) & Book Giveaway
[To listen to the audio hit play and then give it a second to buffer. The audio is high quality]
Following on from last week's post where I shared a few of my top tips for improving your street photography, today is the promised second part of this little series. In part one, I also announced the book giveaway too, where you can be in with a chance of winning my own personal copy of David Gibson's 'The Street Photographer's Manual'. The winner of that competition will be announced on January 31st, so be sure to enter today. Details on how to enter can be found at the bottom of this post.
Before we dive into the tips in this post, let's briefly recap on the first 3* tips I gave In last week's post:
- Isolate & Simplify - Keep the frame clean and make it clear what your subject is
- Tell a story - Is your photograph engaging and interesting? Does it have a point?
- Get closer to your subject and be bold and brave! Fill the frame.
- *BONUS TIP: Michael Pung - Street Portraits
If you missed that post be sure to check it out!
Improve your Street photography in 2017 with these top Tips:
1: Hunter & Fisherman approaches
I've been asked numerous times how it is I actually set about seeing and making street photographs; do I spend the entire day walking or do I sit and wait for the scene? The answer is both!
It's fair to say that these two different approaches will yield different results. They will also suit different photographers too.
Let's start by talking about the method whereby we pound the streets, walk around, cover ground and find the moments. Or, the 'Hunter' method as I like to call it...
As a hunter out on the streets, you'll find yourself spending the day walking. This can be great if you're able to physically do this, but you need to be conscious to keep your eyes open to the scenes around you, and your wits about you as you walk, especially on busy city streets. The idea of hunting for a scene and a subject offers us as photographers plenty of variety. As we move from street to street and district to district the backdrops will change dramatically.
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M1. Lens: 25mm f/1.8 @ Aperture: f/1.8 Focal Length 25mm ISO: 400 Shutter Speed: 1/3200th
As with many larger towns and cities you'll find that the architecture changes from one area to the next. Knowing London as I do for example I can tell you that you have the white rendered buildings, people in suits and cigar shops of St James', then the tourist parts of Leicester Square and Covent Garden, the colours and smells of Soho & the uniqueness of China Town for example. Whatever city you go to, you're likely to experience that same variety. As a hunter you'll sit at your computer later that evening and be welcomed by photographs that are very different from each other owing to the fact you saw different parts of the area.
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M1. Lens: 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO @ Aperture: f/2.8 Focal Length 25mm ISO: 200 Shutter Speed: 1/2000th
Whilst that variety can be found by clocking up miles, what I often find some people struggle with is actually seeing photographically whilst they walk. By this, I mean; the walking itself can actually prevent you from seeing things. Either because you're physically tired, aching & thirsty, or just because your mind can wander as you get lost and explore new places. If that sounds like you, then the fisherman method may be something you should start out by trying...
The fisherman method, as you may have guessed, would see a photographer finding a spot or an area in which to roam. Perhaps a park area or a junction or cross section in the city? Again, thinking about London you could perhaps consider South Bank. Whilst the fisherman approach to street photography is less likely to yield the variety that hunting offers, there are areas, such as South Bank, where the variety will come to you! In a small stretch of 100m, where the walk way is not too wide that people can't really escape your range, you can photograph people discretely as they walk past. Whether they're a commuter on the way to work, a jogger keeping fit during lunch time, tourists with cameras or street performers or skateboarders. Finding an area similar to London's South Bank can very much feel like shooting fish in a barrel (metaphorically speaking of course).
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M1. Lens: 25mm f/1.8 @ Aperture: f/2.2 Focal Length 25mm ISO: 4000 Shutter Speed: 1/15th
The intention and idea of the fisherman method however doesn't necessarily just mean you stay in one area. In an even more intentional way with even less movement required you can instead look for a backdrop or a stage for a scene first (again, metaphorically speaking) and then wait patiently for your subjects to walk onto the set. For example, finding an archway, a set of stairs or steps or a bench, to name but a few ideas. You can position yourself and ready your composition and your settings and then just wait for something or someone interesting to happen. It could be that someone sits on the bench. It could be that a skateboarder jumps the steps or grinds down the rail. It could simply be a chef on a cigarette break in an alleyway behind a restaurant, cafe or diner. Whatever the case may be, you can start by readying the scene and waiting for the interest.
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M5. Lens: 17mm f/1.8 @ Aperture: f/10 Focal Length 17mm ISO: 3200 Shutter Speed: 1/13th
Again, as the name suggests the fisherman method can very much be a waiting game, where the patience you invest is what will reap you those rewards.
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M1. Lens: 17mm f/1.8 @ Aperture: f/1.8 ISO: 800 Shutter Speed: 1/640th
So, as I say: choose a method that you think sounds more appealing to you and give it a try. But you never know, some 'hunters' may find the 'fisherman' method more rewarding than they think, and some 'fishermen' may find the occasional hunt for a subject an exciting experience!
2: Choosing a cameras & lenses for Street Photography
If you're reading this post, I'd say there is a relatively high chance that you have looked online as to what equipment is best suited to street photography, or, you've already formed your own opinion as to what you think is best. My opinion is that there isn't one good answer and there isn't one camera that is necassarily better than any other. A DSLR will have advantages over a compact or a mirrorless camera, and likewise a smaller, lighter camera has its obvious advantages too.
Whilst there are cameras such as the brilliant Olympus PEN-F and accomplished Fuji X100t that are super small, lightweight and help you to look very incognito as if they're designed specifically for street photographers, I've heard some very compelling debates to suggest that having a DSLR out on the street can in fact help to convince others that you're just a tourist too! After all, it seems everyone is a photographer these days and more and more people are investing in 'big cameras'. I guess having a DSLR could in effect actually help you to blend in, in an odd sort of way.
My own belief is that you should use the camera you feel most comfortable and familiar with, whatever that may be. You don't need to wait until you have that latest mirrorless camera and you shouldn't be put off by 'only' having a Full Frame DSLR. Both will get you results - it's you that has to be ready to see the moment and capture it.
Without sitting on the fence though and with all that said, let's consider the practical advantages of a smaller, lighter camera here: you are going to find that you need a smaller bag for it all, which means you are likely to be less fatigued by the end of the day. These mirrorless cameras often offer a totally silent electronic shutter mode and, arguably, in my opinion, you are less likely to be considered a 'serious' or 'professional' owing to perceptions alone. So if you can put your ego aside for one minute, it could be that on this occasion looking like an amateur or tourist is a good thing (I would say though for the record, I don't agree with the perception, but it is a hard one to argue. I wrote about my feelings on this in my 'Why Olympus?' Post)
So, whilst this section of advice isn't necessarily me telling you exactly what to carry and use, I would loosely suggest the following things to I think aid you physically and creatively:
- travel light.
- pack one camera & one lens
- pack a spare battery
- use as small a bag as possible
Travelling with one camera and one lens, whichever lens that may be, will serve to help you focus only on the scenes and the moments happening in front of you and less on the gear you have in your bag.
3: Times, Locations & Days to shoot (Workshops)
Every time is a good time for street photography! It doesn't matter if it's a dark winter. It doesn't matter if it's raining! These elements are only going to provide an extra dimension and level of interest to your photography. Some of my own personal favourite images that I have made out on the street have come on late December and January evenings. I wrote a post back in 2015 that went on to be featured in the Olympus Magazine where I spoke about low light photography and how to tackle it (you can check that out right here on the blog).
Whilst this answer is somewhat generic, I would personally suggest that you should look to book yourself onto a local photo walk or tour with an experienced street photographer. Whilst that person doesn't necessarily need to know the area (one could argue), I'd say that a local will be able to take you to the lesser known areas, which will definitely go some way to helping you to produce more unique images.
One man that can talk about this a little better than me is Paul Griffiths and so I've invited Paul to share his thoughts on what it is a Street Photography Tour or Workshop can offer you. For those of you that don't know Paul; runs the popular Photography Live & Unct Blog Video Blog over on YouTube. Paul is an accomplished Photographer who knows London like the back of his hand having worked in the city for many many years. Today though, when not interviewing some of the world's most renowned photographers for his show, you'll find Paul leading tours & workshops on the streets of London.
Here's what Paul has to say about the value of work shops:
Setting targets, joining camera clubs and making New Years' resolutions are great. But ultimately, there’s nothing better than just getting out with your camera and ‘taking’ (or rather making) images.
Image used with permission of Paul Griffiths. Image Copyright by Paul Griffiths
For anyone that enjoys Documentary or Street Photography, you will likely be aware Photo walkabouts where a group get together and hit the streets together, but it could be argued that these are not necessarily the best means to learn when it comes to street photography. Sure, you can exchange ideas and talk about cameras all day, but invariably a walkabout typically starts off with a group sticking together and eventually disintegrating and becoming separated as attendees drop away, get lost or sometimes decide to go another route.
It's not really the type of event to gain tips & skills from!
"Practice makes perfect!" & "Your photography will improve if you practice!"; You've no doubt have heard these statements before? Well, they are true, but practice with guidance and the practice is improved!
http://www.photographyliveanduncut.com/aboutmecontact/
Rather than an unguided walkabout with a lack of intention, the ardent photographer should start to look for better options to learn and improve their craft. One such way is a structured Photography Workshop.
Whether you prefer working indoors or outdoors, these days you're very likely to find one to suit you and your style of learning. The best workshops typically host not more than 6-8 people, offer a ‘hands on’ and experienced tutor who encourages and can demonstrate camera skills and who can take you out of your comfort zone in order to expand your thinking and widen your horizons! That's the best way to learn!
This is exactly what we at ‘Photography Live and Uncut’ offer: a workshop that will teach you new skills and enable you to try different ways to make photos and to get you out of that comfort zone. You may know your settings and compositions already (great!), but we'll start by helping you to see photographically - the art of seeing a scene and a story in front of you. We offer workshops that are both studio-based and out on the streets, depending on your preferred genre. We're here to share everything we know with you to ensure you gain the most from your workshop experience. Everything we teach and do is aimed and focussed towards improving your photography
If you want to know more information about one of Paul's Workshops, made available through Photography Live & Uncut, simply check out his website. (Pssst, be sure to follow Paul on Social Media too if you want to be notified of the latest workshop dates)
4: Bonus Tip: Expectations of your own efforts
Looking at the portfolio's of some avid street photographers, who have galleries full of images from the street, it can seem that the expectation of an afternoon out on the streets is to come home with a dozen images that you think are wonderful. Whilst I don't want to suggest that your work isn't good and that you haven't got a dozen good images after a day of shooting, in reality, the chances are you'll end up with just 1 or 2...or possibly none!
As photographer's we should only be showing our absolute best work. So, when you load your images into Lightroom, or Aperture or whichever is your preferred tool be selective, conscious and give thought as to which images genuinely have content, story, an interesting subject and are of a quality you are happy with. If you are able to honestly look at an image and say that it contains elements from each of the tips from these two posts that i've written (that being part one from last week and this post too), then go ahead and share it. But if, after mulling over an image you realise it doesn't have any 'Pull' or interest, then don't be disheartened.
You've probably heard people before say 'I make my own luck' and whilst I think there is something in this phrase, really, what luck is, is where preparedness meets opportunity. I guess what I'm saying is that it is your job to be prepared and to spot the opportunity. But, that's not to say that opportunity will always present itself to you in the form of an interesting scene to photograph. Sometimes, the interest is more subtle and as such you have to try harder to spot it.
The reason I'm ending this short series on such a note is because, in reality, all you are doing by applying all of your skills and possibly even by following the advice that Michael Pung, Paul Griffiths and myself have provided in these two posts, is increasing your chances of capturing something worth sharing. It's not offering you a guarantee at all.
In the first couple of paragraphs in the first post I did say that Street Photography can appear to be easy and simplistic. But I'm sure, after having tried it yourself or even just having been through my top tips, you'll appreciate that there is far more to capturing an image on the street that you had possibly considered.
Sure, you may have days where you come back with a bunch of great work, but others, you may come back with nothing. You will soon realise that not everything you capture, despite your best efforts, is actually as good as you may initially think. Don't think of this as a reflection of your overall skills as a photographer, but remember that capturing a quality, engaging and interesting moment on the street requires a lot of things to fall into place at the right time and that everything happens in the blink of an eye; press that shutter just 1 second later and the story inside the frame you just captured could be totally different.
Street Photography can be a funny old mistress that can reward you. Other days you'll return home with nothing to show for your efforts. It's cruel, but that's street photography.
...The End!
Book Giveaway
Okay, so if you're here for the book giveaway, look no further. I'm giving away my own personal copy of The Street Photographers Manual by David Gibson.
I loved this book so much that I felt compelled to write a review here on the blog (you can read that book right here). Coupled with this post, I thought that it would be a great companion for anyone looking to improve their street photograph and so, I'm giving it away for free!
Review Excerpt:
"Whilst the book itself may be called a manual and does offer instruction to help you create more thought-out and intentional street photographs, this is also a very impressive and vast study of street photography. This book looks at both various techniques and elements that contribute towards stronger imagery and makes use of examples by the greatest street photographers of our time such as; Elliott Erwitt, Bruce Gilden, Saul Leiter, Trente Park and more. These examples give the book's instructions conviction and only serve to show that this thorough - yet concise - book is something you can not only read for inspiration, but learn from at the same time. Within each chapter we are introduced to either another master of Street Photography or another technique of shooting on the street, each accompanying a sample of that master's work or an example of that technique in action to best explain and demonstrate the case in point"
To be in with a chance of winning my own, personal copy of The Street Photographer's Manual, subscribe to the blog using the form below and share this post on social media (be sure to include a link back to this post). If you're already a subscriber, just drop a comment below. I'll canvas all new subscriptions and comments and pick the lucky winner from those.
Good luck everyone! Thanks for stopping by.
Street Photography Tips (Part 1) & Book Giveaway!
[To listen to the audio hit play and then give it a second to buffer. Alternatively,be sure to subscribe to the blog over in iTunes where you can listen on-the-go too!]
There's a lot going on today! In addition to my own 3 top tips to improve your street photography, I've invited the fantastic Michael Pung to offer a top tip of his own for street portraits too! In addition to all of that, I'm also running the first of my giveaways for 2017!
If you're interested in the street photography tips then just keep reading. If however, you're just here to put your name in the hat to win the book, skip to the bottom for entry information and terms & conditions. Good luck to you all!
Improve your Street photography in 2017 with these top Tips:
Perhaps you've just picked up your first camera for Christmas? Perhaps with some of the spare time you had over the festive period you ventured out into the street for the first time to try your hand at what can at first appear to be a very easy and simplistic photographic discipline - Street Photography.
Whatever the case may be, I've got a few tips to help you to produce stronger, more compelling images when in public spaces.
Now, I'm not suggesting that the tips in this post alone will transform you into a master Street Photographer overnight! There is so much more to Street Photography than can be condensed into 3 tips. In fact, I've got lots to say on the subject. That's why I'm going to actually split this post into 2. This is part 1 of 2. You can check out Part 2 right here
Today I'll start with the practical things; the things that you can practice and implement right now to instantly make stronger and more engaging photographs of life on the streets:
1: Isolate & simplify
I see too many street photographs with no clear subject! It's massively frustrating for me when I look through people's work and all I see are busy streets, without a clear point of focus, intent, story or subject.
Through use of light and shadows this image successfully leads the viewer's eye to the illuminated subject. Note however that the background is illuminated just enough to help tell the story, whilst at the same time is not too bright so that it is a distraction from the main subject.
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M1. Lens: 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO @ Aperture: f/2.8 Focal Length 12mm ISO: 3200 Shutter Speed: 1/160th
Now, of course sometimes the subject in the frame can be the order among chaos, but unless it's easily identifiable or intentional the subject is often lost and the viewer is left confused as to what the intention of the image actually is! As such my first tip is to isolate your subject. By this, I mean make it clear what your subject is. This can be achieved by using contrasting colours; a lady in a bold red coat in a crowd of darker coats perhaps?
If you aren't able to isolate your image using contrast, colour or shadows & light, then go for plan B; simplify the contents of the frame.
This can be achieved by removing elements that are distracting, such as bright spots in the background (bright and bold colours as well bright lights). Text and writing in images can also be very distracting. Signage and shop fronts as shown below can often be distractions. (unless of course they add to the story as I discuss in my second tip). A commonly used method of simplification is to find a plain background to use as a stage for your subjects; brick walls for example can work quite well:
By putting my subject against a plain backdrop, I ensure that my subject is the only thing for my viewer to look at. Simple Framing.
Camera: Canon 7D Lens: 85mm f/1.8 Aperture: f/4 Focal Length 85mm ISO: 1000 Shutter Speed: 1/400th
Another means to simplify is to use a shallow depth of field to remove or hide or reduce a distracting element of the background from a frame. Here for example you can clearly see the city in the background, however the use of depth ensures that the viewer's is drawn back towards the object in sharp focus; the musician:
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M5. Lens: 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO @ Aperture: f/2.8 Focal Length: 31mm ISO: 800 Shutter Speed: 1/2000th
2: Tell a story
Before I photograph anything I subconsciously ask myself a few questions: Why are you photographing that scene? What's the point? What is the story? Will someone else see or get the story?
I don't literally stop and ask myself these questions, but over time this thought process has become very much part what happens before I press the shutter. As the photographer, we were present at the moment it all happened and so we have the added context in our mind to aid the story, things like how hot or cold it was, what the street smelled like, what sounds could be heard and what else was happening outside of the frame to inform the action happening inside the frame. All of those extra senses we have add more to the story for us. Instantly, that provides a different and perhaps more informed narrative for us when we view the image back. It makes us biased. So, unless we somehow capture more inside the frame to help put the pieces of the story together for the viewer, what we ourselves often consider to be a great image because of how we feel about it, is nothing more than a snapshot of someone on the street to someone else.
For me, this is why Street Photography in itself is an often-misunderstood genre: It appears easy to walk around and shoot all the interesting things you see on a busy street, but that doesn't necessarily translate into a compelling and engaging or even interesting photograph for someone else to look at.
A dark scene featuring a man smoking (the smoke is obvious) leaning against the front of a betting shop (bookies as we say in the UK). The text reads 'When the Fun Stops, Stop'.
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M1. Lens: 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO @ Aperture: f/2.8 Focal Length 12mm ISO: 3200 Shutter Speed: 1/80th
Now, without all of that additional context provided by our own senses as I mentioned above, the story told within a frame can be left to the interpretation of the viewer, even if you have provided a lot of additional visual stimulus and a clear backdrop to the scene. This is absolutely fine. Often, it can be more interesting for a viewer to look at the image and begin to imagine and write their own story to bring the image to life. Don't be upset if the story that someone invents to surround your image isn't the story you saw at the time you made the image. Just be grateful that someone has taken the time to study your image enough to see a story within it!
3: Get Closer & Be Bold
This is something of an expansion on my point to isolate & simplify what is in your frame, but here I want to suggest that you get closer to your subject to make the image more engaging. This works particularly well when you achieve eye contact with your subject (if your subject is a person or an animal that is). For example:
Note that despite my subjects occupying a large proportion of the frame, I still have composition, isolation and a story being told in the background.
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M1. Lens: 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO @ Aperture: f/2.8 Focal Length 12mm ISO: 3200 Shutter Speed: 1/160th
Standing at a red light waiting to cross the street I took a few side-steps to get closer to this woman. I waited for the lights to turn amber before raising the camera and making a frame. With so much going on around us all my subject could do was to throw me a glance before crossing. This frame would have arguably been too busy had my subject been farther away and occupied a smaller amount of the frame.
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M1. Lens: 25mm f/1.8 @ Aperture: f/1.8 Focal Length 25mm ISO: 320 Shutter Speed: 1/640th
Helping your subject to dominate the frame makes it immediately more obvious exactly what your subject is. Fact.
You will still of course have to keep an eye out for distracting elements, as always.
If you're shooting a street performer, get in closer to them (but be safe and don't invade their space). If you're shooting street, you're typically going to be in an open public space. As such you should have the freedom to move around - so do it! Don't just let life pass you by from one spot - go and get those images! That is of course, unless you're setting a scene and waiting for the subject (more on that part two though)
Don't be scared to raise the camera to your face to make a photograph of someone. Sure, this feeling will be worse if you're in a less densely populated area, but don't fear question or conflict; make the image and congratulate yourself for having done so later, because the alternative is missing the shot and kicking yourself for it later. Raising the camera up to your hip can be fine, but it will dramatically reduce your chances of getting the shot. It's also sneaky! So be intentional, bold and get closer to the subject!
4: Bonus Tip: Michael Pung Shares his thoughts on making strong Street Portraits:
I've got an entire gallery filled with Street Portraits, however, I have to admit that the street portaits made by Michael Pung are on another level. As such, rather than me offering my thoughts on street portraiture, I have instead invited Michael (Pung) to give you his expert opinion on the matter:
I love taking street portraits. There is something exhilarating about making the approach, forming that connection (if even for a brief minute or two) and capturing their photograph.
Image used with permission of Michael Pung. Image Copyright of Michael Pung.
The approach is quite possibly the scariest part of taking street portraits, but once you get past it, you will discover that it really is quite rewarding. I enjoy making that connection with everyone I meet. It really isn’t about what you say, but how you do it. Try not to hesitate and just be upfront with your intentions. I usually just introduce myself in a friendly manner and ask for their photograph. I like to gauge if they’re busy, and if they aren’t then I ask them some questions to get to know them better. Sometimes conversations can go on for 20 minutes or more! But if not, it’s still okay! And even if you don’t get the photograph, making that connection really is something special.
Image used with permission of Michael Pung. Image Copyright of Michael Pung.
As for making the portrait, here are a few of my ingredients! I enjoy shooting at lower apertures to make the backgrounds soft (1.2 to 2.0 aperture on a 56mm on an APS-C sensor). If you find it too soft, it is okay increase it a little to have more of their facial features in focus. In general, try to keep eyes in the top half of the frame and if this means cropping a little off the top of their head, that’s okay! There should be a balance in the shot and this varies from how close or how far you want to crop. The focus here is on the individual and you want to remove as much of the distractions away from the subject. The individual doesn’t need to smile usually and a neutral expression is better than anything forced. Make a connection, and once that is made, the other things come together to make a strong portrait!
Image used with permission of Michael Pung. Image Copyright of Michael Pung.
For more of Michael's wonderful work, check out his blog at www.michaelpung.com/blog
Part 2 - January 2017
This post runs the risk of becoming way too long if I continue with the other tips I have, but I really do want to offer further advice. For now, I'll leave you with these things to digest and try out. I'll post part 2 of this next week. So you if want to receive part 2 of this post in your inbox, be sure to subscribe. In part 2, I'll talk about:
- Hunter & Fisherman approaches
- Choosing a cameras & lenses for Street Photography
- Times, Locations & Days to shoot
- Bonus Tip: Expectations of your own efforts
Book Giveaway
Okay, so if you're here for the book giveaway, look no further. I'm giving away my own personal copy of The Street Photographers Manual by David Gibson.
I loved this book so much that I felt compelled to write a review here on the blog (you can read that book right here). Coupled with this post, I thought that it would be a great companion for anyone looking to improve their street photograph and so, I'm giving it away for free!
Review Excerpt:
"Whilst the book itself may be called a manual and does offer instruction to help you create more thought-out and intentional street photographs, this is also a very impressive and vast study of street photography. This book looks at both various techniques and elements that contribute towards stronger imagery and makes use of examples by the greatest street photographers of our time such as; Elliott Erwitt, Bruce Gilden, Saul Leiter, Trente Park and more. These examples give the book's instructions conviction and only serve to show that this thorough - yet concise - book is something you can not only read for inspiration, but learn from at the same time. Within each chapter we are introduced to either another master of Street Photography or another technique of shooting on the street, each accompanying a sample of that master's work or an example of that technique in action to best explain and demonstrate the case in point"
To be in with a chance of winning my own, personal copy of The Street Photographer's Manual, subscribe to the blog using the form below and share this post on social media (be sure to include a link back to this post). If you're already a subscriber, just drop a comment below. I'll canvas all new subscriptions and comments and pick the lucky winner from those.
Good luck everyone! Thanks for stopping by.
Video & Free Downloads - Lightroom Smart Collection Settings
[To listen to the audio hit play and then give it a second to buffer. The audio is high quality]
I'm just in the midst of preparing my annual 'Looking Back' post, where I review the images I made during the past year. Its the annual retrospective exercise that we should all be doing as photographers. It helps one to gain some perspective as to where it was we were back in January compared to just how far we've come in those 12 months to December.
This year I plan on doing more than just sharing 10 my favourite images from 2016 though. I'm going to revisit the 5 most popular blog posts as visited by you guys and I'm also going to give a complete break down of the gear I used for the year, including how much use each lens actually got.
In order to achieve this, I'm using Adobe Lightroom's Smart Collection feature to sort my images into folders (effectively) based on an the attributes of an image.
For example, I can set a smart collection to look through all of my images and pick out those that were shot with the 40-150mm f/2.8 PRO. I can repeat this for each lens and camera I own. This tells me just how I used each lens by simply showing me the number of images for each smart collection.
Whilst this isn't a hard thing to configure, it can be time consuming. So, I've saved all of my settings into files for you to download and import into your own instance of Lightroom.
This Smart Collection in Adobe Lightroom shows me how many images I shot with the 40-150mm f/2.8 PRO lens from Olympus during 2016
Given that the smart collections I have used look at images made between specific dates, I've gone ahead and made Smart Collections for both 2016 and 2017. Feel free to download them using the links below.
Various Adobe LIghtroom Smart Collection Settings Files available for download
For details on how to import the smart collections into lightroom, just watch the video below. In this I also go into a little detail as to how it is I made these smart collections (if you so wish to make your own for lenses I have not included). Alternatively, skip down past the video for the bulleted version of the instructions if you can't watch video where you are right now.
> Download Olympus 2016 Smart Collection Files here
> Download Olympus 2017 Smart Collection Files here
Importing Smart Collection Settings into Adobe Lightroom (Video)
Importing Smart Collection Settings Into Adobe Lightroom
- Download the Smart Collection Settings Files from this post
- Save somewhere on your computer
- Open Adobe Lightroom
- In the Library Module Expand 'Collections' in the left pane
- Create a new Collection Set
- Name the collection set '2016'
- Right Click on the 2016 Collection Set
- Choose 'Import Smart Collection Settings
- Browse to the files I have made available for you that you saved back in step 2.
- Choose the Smart Collection Settings you wish to use
- Ta Dah!
- (repeat for the Smart Collection Sets applicable to you)
I hope you find these Smart Collection settings useful. I would love to know what your most used lens and camera was for 2016! Please do share a link to your own 2016 Look Back post if you have made one, I'll be sure to stop by and leave a comment on your post!
If you found these Smart Collection Settings useful be sure to share this post and subscribe to the blog today. My own review of 2016 will be out in just a couple of days. Subscribing is the best way to be sure you see that post first!
Olympus 7-14 f/2.8 PRO Review
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With the launch of the much-anticipated and long awaited Olympus OM-D E-M1 mark 2, you're now able to find lots of offers and bundles on Olympus PRO lenses too. Most notably a few of the larger and well known camera stores here in the U.K are promoting the E-M1 mark ii bundled with the 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO for example. But today, I want to emplore and encourage you to take a serious look at the wonderful Olympus 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO lens.
It's been around for a while now but after including it in a recent post as one of my top three Olympus Micro Four Thirds lenses I've had a couple of emails from subscribers asking me more about the lens and whether it really is as good as I said it was in that post.
There are ofcourse a plethora of technical reviews available on the Internet from the likes of DPReview, but from a practical standpoint I thought that the 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO really does deserve it's own post here on the blog. So, here you go...
Just like Olympus with their cameras, this cyclist is breaking the rules!
I imagine that with the launch of the EM-1 mark 2 and the fact that the PRO lens line up is now what most photographers would consider to be mature, that many more photographers will be re-visiting a move to a mirrorless system. As such let's assume that you're asking yourself where in the lens lineup the 7-14mm f/2.8 sits in terms of quality.
Quite simply: the Olympus PRO range of lenses are Olympus' answer to Canon's L series lenses if you will. As the 'PRO' name suggests they're designed for professional use. They are the top lenses on offer from Olympus.
Olympus M.Zuiko PRO lenses all feature constant a aperture, covering a complete focal range of 7mm - 300mm (or, 14mm to 600mm in terms of the Micro Four Thirds equivalent field of view). PRO lenses feature the most premium quality optics, superb build quality and are dust, freeze and splash proof.
On the widest end of Olympus' PRO lens offering is this, the 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO super wide angle.
Of all of the Olympus lenses I own, the 7-14mm f/2.8 is my most recent addition, purchased back in March 2016. Although I've had it all this time I didn't want to write a review until such a time that I thought I had given it a fair run out and put it through it's paces. So after 16 weddings, a few landscape outings and other various bits and pieces; I think I'm pretty well placed to give you my thoughts on this lens.
Let's start with the stats, specs and highlights: (skip past these if you don't care for details)
Specs & Details
- 7-14mm focal range provides a 14-28mm, 35mm equivalent field of view
- Retails here in the UK for around £800 - £900
- 7 Round Bladed Aperture for circular bokeh
- 14 elements, 11 Groups
- Angle of view: 75.4 degrees when zoomed to 14mm and 114.2 degrees at the widest end
- Splash, Freeze and dust proof the same as the M.Zuiko 12-40 f/2.8 PRO
- Metal construction, feels even sturdier than the M.Zuiko 12-40 f/2.8 PRO!
- The lens hood is physically part of the lens and cannot be removed. As with many wide angles the front element is very concave and protrudes outwards. As such use without a lens hood wouldn't be advised anyway. The lens hood offers physical protection to the front element and is there not only for reducing flare and ghosting.
- The front element does extend when zooming, much like the 12-40 f/2.8 PRO. However, the front element does not extend beyond the end of the body of the lens - the lens remains the same size, albeit the front element simply extends outward (not beyond the lens hood). The physical travel of the front element when zooming is very small.
If you're coming from a DSLR then the Olympus 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO pits itself against the Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 and the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8. Panasonic also offer their own MFT Mount 7-14mm as well, but it's worth noting that is an f/4 lens. I'll reference these in this review.
Horwood House, Milton Keynes, UK
My first outing with the 7-14mm for my first wedding of 2016
Size and Weight
If you picked up an OM-D as part of a kit you may well already have the brilliant 12-40mm f/2.8. If it's a lens you're familiar with, then you're not far from being able to imagine the size, dimensions and general feel of the 7-14mm f/2.8. The diameter and feel of these two lenses are very familiar with the 7-14mm f/2.8 being a little larger, if anything. So, if you've become well adjusted and comfortable using the 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO, picking up the 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO should give for an immediately familiar feel.
The lens weighs in at 534 grams. Given its' relatively similar size to the 12-40mm f/2.8 therefore you'll be pleasantly surprised by this when you pick one up for the first time - by comparison, the 12-40mm f/2.8 is a shade lighter at 382 grams. For further comparison, the DSLR equivalents from Canon & Nikon are both heavier. Canon's super 16-35mm is just 100 grams heavier at 635 grams and the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 comes in at a comparatively whopping 970 grams. Sticking with the Micro Four Thirds comparisons though, Panasonic's own 7-14mm is rather light at 300grams. So, if weight is an important factor to you, perhaps due to an injury, then the Panasonic may be the way to go. I would however debate Olympus' 7-14mm offering feels beautifully balanced when mounted to an OM-D. Those few hundred extra grams give for a reassuringly premium feeling construction.
My first bride of 2016 photographed with the Olympus M.Zuiko 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO lens
First Impressions
As with all of the lenses so far in the M.Zuiko PRO range, the resistance (or stiffness) of the rings on the lens feels great. In fact, if you own any of the M.Zuiko PRO lenses, such as the 12-40mm or the 40-150mm for example, then then you'll find that the 7-14mm f/2.8 handles very similarly in that respect. That universal and consistent feel and operation that Olympus have given to their PRO lenses is something I can really appreciate. Each time I pick up one of the 'Holy Trinity' of lenses (these being the 7-14mm, the 12-40mm and the 40-150mm) they operate pretty much in the same way. By launching these lenses at around the same time, give or take a year, they've presented them to us in a way that Canon never did. The Canon 24-70mm for example feels nothing like, or even operates anything like the 70-200mm. They don't look the same either.
The 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO feels dense, strong and solid. All features that I'm sure you've come to know from the other lenses in the PRO lineup.
If you've owned a Super Wide Angle Zoom before on a different system, then the lens cap won't be anything new to you. However, if you've found your way (back) into photography through an OM-D and this is your first Wide Angle - then the pinch-style lens cap may at first seem a little odd. The lens cap, unlike other standard zooms and primes, has to take into account the concave and protruding nature of the front element, meaning it therefore cannot sit flush in front of that element. So, as a result it mounts neatly around the lens hood, which is an integral part of the 7-14mm body. You could say it's shaped a little like a hockey puck. It's solid and features the same front panel design of the other PRO lens, lens caps.
Image Quality
When it comes to lenses a good one will often outlast the cameras you own. I'd say this is the case with the 7-14mm for sure. Everything I've said about the image quality of the 12-40mm and the 40-150 is exactly the same for the 7-14mm: It's incredibly sharp both at 7mm and at 14mm, even in the corners which isn't common for a super wide angle. Here are some sample images for you to take a look at to demonstrate (all new images unreleased before now:)
Even though it's an Ultra Wide Angle lens, distortion isn't overly extreme unless you angle the lens at your subject. For example I recently found myself with very little space to shoot a few large formal photographs at a wedding, which called for the 7-14mm in order to fit the group of people in the frame. Ordinarily I would be somewhat concerned about the warping and distortion that tends to take place in the outer edges of the frame, but what I actually found is that if I shot square on at chest height to my subjects I achieve a pretty standard feeling frame . A minor distortion correction in Adobe Lightroom corrected this even further and left no after-effects or extra-wide or oddly-tall family members on the outside edges of the frame.
That said though, with little effort you really can create a distorted and stretched image if that is your intention. All you have to do is simply to exaggerate and change your angle and that result will happen. Check this out:
Who is this Lens for?
Whilst a super wide angle isn't a lens that every photographer will need, Wedding Photographers and Landscape photographers will definitely want one of these in their bag. It's weather sealed - of course - meaning it can stand up to inclement weather. So whether you're in a field or up a mountain, or just outside photographing a couple for their pre-wedding shoot or lifestyle shoot you'll be safe in the knowledge this lens can handle those situations.
As with all of the M.ZUIKO PRO lenses they do come in slightly higher priced than some of the mid-range zooms and prime lenses, but you're investing in quality. Not wanting to repeat myself (but I will) - a good lens will definitely outlast your camera body! So, if you look at it that way - the 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO isn't actually that expensive at all. I've had my E-M1 for 2 years now and will likely upgrade to the E-M1ii during 2017. I would imagine I'll own the 7-14mm f/2.8 for the entire duration of that camera too. I wouldn't be surprised if I one day pair it with an Olympus OM-D E-M1 mark 3!
Like most of the Olympus lenses (with the exception of a few such as relatively new Olympus M.ZUIKO PRO 300mm f/4), the 7-14mm f.2.8 it not stabilised. This is taken care of with the In-Body stabilisation offered by the Olympus OM-D range of cameras. As such if you're a Panasonic shooter and you don't have stabilisation in your camera, this lens could be less appealing to you than Panasonic's own.
With this super short focal range you do find that the stabilisation is even more effective than on lenses with longer focal ranges. Which is always a nice, added bonus.
Criticisms
I've tried very hard to find something wrong with this lens, but in truth I really can't pick fault at it. It stacks up against the DSLR lens offerings from Canon and Nikon in every way with superb optical quality and build.
I mentioned when I wrote a review of my 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO that it suffered a little more than most when it came to chromatic aberration when you shoot toward a light source. The same can be said for the 7-14mm f/2.8 too. But this is as much to do with the distance between the sensor and the camera mounting point of the camera & lens (the flange distance) as much as anything else.
Although, as a wide angle lens, this Is somewhat expected and not completely unsurprising behavior. The shape of the front element being what it is will always contribute to less predictive behavior when it comes to the way that the light 'bounces around' inside the lens between the elements. That, coupled with the very short flange distance (the distance between the very rear element of the lens to the sensor) will contribute to some Chromatic Aberration (CA). That said so far I've only had CA on a couple of photographs I've made using this lens and fortunately it's not apparent in some of the more common CA-causing scenarios (such as portraits with a strong and contrasting rim light, or a cool, blue window light), but if you shoot a branch with the sky as the background, or if you photograph a building, looking upward, you may spot some aberration along the edges. Now, I know what you're thinking: "CA is easily removed in Lightroom" - and you're right. But this does have to be mentioned. So, this does become less of an issue, but I still wanted to point it out.
Conclusion
In short, Olympus have done it again and have produced yet another lens more than able to take on the mantle of being a 'PRO' lens. Superb build quality combined with outstanding optical results mean we have a lens that can take on whatever we choose to throw at it.
The 7-14mm f/2.8 confidently now sits at the widest end of the 'Holy Trinity' of lenses, meaning us Olympus MFT photographers have a trio of lenses covering focal ranges from 7mm to 300mm, all the while maintaining a constant f/2.8 aperture.
No matter what you choose to shoot, if you need a wider field of view then the 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO is ready to step in and serve you well.
Feels great, looks great, works great - all in a lens that is reasonably priced. Well done Olympus yet again!
Your views
Do you own the Olympus 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO? Have you used this lens before? What do you think? Be sure to drop a comment below and we can chat! Please, as always, be sure to include a link to your website and work too :)